Tuesday, October 8, 2013

Day 21: Marseille

We got up in the morning to drive down to Marseille (pronounced Marsay), the largest port in France. If you're a reader you might know it because of a fantastic novel known as the Count of Monte Cristo.  Just off the coast is a couple of islands- including one tiny little island with a prison fort called the Chateau d'If (Shat-oh deef).  Though the fantastic movie of the Count of Monte Cristo makes you believe the island is far from any other coasts and it is a great feat that Edmond Dantes swims to freedom, in actuality it is very close to the port and even closer to the bigger island Frioul (Free-ool).
Unfortunately it was a very windy day- very windy.  So windy that it was impossible to land any of their boats at the Chateau d'If, but we could still go to Frioul. So that is what we did.
Frioul is a natural reserve and it has many beautiful places to swim (which was on mom's list to do), and many places to get a great view of the Chateau d'If.  But you have to walk there- cars and bikes are not allowed without special permission.  So we had about a 20 minute walk to a beach that was suggested to us.  The environment is so different from what I was used to in my more northern areas in Europe.  We felt like we were in Mexico.  It was very desert-y and there were a few dilapidated abandoned buildings.
We found the beach, which was gorgeous, but we also found a large group of people filming a french tv show.  We could only swim in one portion of the beach to stay out of their shot.
Mom and Dad got changed and went swimming, but I knew I would freeze.  Even if the water temperature were more reasonable, the wind would not be fun.  These things didn't stop my parents however. So took pictures of the beautiful clear Mediterranean water while they got their fill.  We didn't stay too long but we watched the filming from a distance for a few minutes as we walked back.  The scene they were doing was some woman murdered on the beach.  We think a dog finds her and leads some man to her body.  It was fun to listen from afar, "ACTION!" and "COUPEZ!"
We got lunch back in the port before we got on our boat back to Marseille.
The boat ride is fun because it is extremely choppy due to the wind, so it is a fun challenge of keeping your feet under you as you walk around.
Back in Marseille we passed by a boulangerie and decided to treat ourselves to some delicious pastries.
After we left Marseille we went to Arles so my parents could see another roman arena but I slept in the car. They woke me up to see a monument to Van Gogh and then we left Arles to go to St. Remy, where Van Gogh painted Starry Night.  There is a trail through the town that goes out to the hospital where he lived.  They have historical plaques spread out along the way.  It got dark while we were there- which seemed appropriate for the place where the most famous night landscape was painted.
Before getting home we went to the grocery store to find some easy dinner and food for the road tomorrow.

Monday, October 7, 2013

Day 20: Nîmes, Avignon, Pont du Gard

The house where we are staying is out in the country-side and it all smells of lavender.  
We took longer than we wanted to get out of the house, but it takes a lot of planning to get all our destinations (and the maps for them) in order.  This has been the essence of our trip-late night planning and early morning organizing.
We stopped at a grocery store for the things we needed for the day and then we headed to Nîmes. I was really excited for this because I have a mission friend who lives there.  Emmanuel Prunin served in Geneva with me for four transfers (nearly 6 months) as an office Elder.  When we had problems with our apartments we called Elder Prunin.  My companion and I needed to replace our shower-head and we prepared a halloween prank on him when he came to fix it.  Elder Prunin was on the train with me when I left Geneva to go to Lyon, and THEN when I finished my mission and left Lyon to go to the mission home in Geneva, quess who was on the same train.  
We met up with Emmanuel at the church. Its always funny for missionaries to meet after the mission because even though we know eachother well, we still have to ask about names.  I knew his name was Emmanuel but I asked if that was what he goes by.  He said his friends call him Manu.  My parents cracked up.  One (yes, one of many) of my nicknames is Nanu.  Manu and Nanu hitt'n the town.  
Manu learned quite a bit of English during his mission but he still does not speak it fluently.  So it was fun for me to speak mostly french and also fun for my parents to make sense of the little english that Manu shared in telling some of the history that he knows about Nîmes. Although- they were probably surprised to discover something I already knew.  Manu is a joker.  He would tell them something that was totally made up- but not always far off.  Nîmes has a symbol engraved and otherwise represented EVERYWHERE- it is of a crocodile tied up to a palm tree.  You can look it up on google if you want the explanation because I don't remember it right now.  But I think I remember Manu saying the crocodile was a gift to Cleopatra from her lover- he said it so convincingly.
We walked through the old town with Manu and went to Les Arènes de Nîmes, an enormous roman arena- still used for concerts and even bull fighting. 
We visited a couple other old roman buildings in Nîmes before we found a kebab shop and ate lunch.  Then Manu walked back to get his car while we walked to the Jardin de la Fontaine (Fountain Garden) and up the huge hill to the Tour Magne (Great tower).  All of it was very beautiful.  Manu met us at the top and drove us back to our car at the church.  We said goodbye and drove back to Avignon to see their fortress-well, the Papal Palace- and the Pont d'Avignon- a bridge that doesn't extend all the way across the water.
Before we lost the sunlight we wanted to make it out to Pont du Gard- a Roman aquaduct outside of Remoulins.  Its enormous and quite impressive.
I don't know what to say about the things we saw today- we got some great pictures, and I mostly just enjoyed catching up with Manu. It was a great day.

Day 19: Milan-to-Provence

Our plans in Milan didn't include sight seeing because we couldn't get tickets in to see the painting of the Last Supper but Paulo called to say that he would take us on a quick drive to see a little bit of Milan. He tried to flatter his way inside to see the painting but that didn't work. So instead we found parking on the quiet Sunday morning and walked to go see the Duomo cathedral. It is the fourth largest cathedral in Europe, if I remember correctly. The square vas very empty because it was early but there were a few other tourists and some African men trying to get money out of them. They would put bird feed right in your hand so the pigeons come and land on your arm. I was taking pictures of this happening and then a man gave me some too. Unfortunately I had the camera and I think my mom was the only one who saw before the grains, and therefore the pigeons, were gone. Then the guy started tying a bracelet on my wrist, "where are you from? This is from Nigeria, like me."  I told him that I didn't have any money but he insisted it was fine. It is a friendship bracelet. I kept saying that I didn't have money but then the bracelet was tied on my wrist. "This means you are my friend!"
Of course as I was walking away he asked for 2 euros.
I said I don't have it. He asked to see my money.
I said no.
This repeated a couple of times until he walked away, obviously disappointed that I wasn't a dumb tourist he can get money out of. Well too bad for him. He should learn NOT to approach every girl he sees and expect them to pay him for flattering words and a cheap bracelet. Honestly, of he had just offered nicely some of the grains to feed the birds (Mary Poppins style) for a little money I probably would have said yes. I'll do a lot of things for a good picture.
 We also walked to see the Opera house, La Scala, which is across the street from a monument to Leonardo Da Vinci.
Walking back to the car through the downtown area, I noticed the cafés getting ready for the day and you can't miss the impressively large buckets of delicious gelato flavors, so colorful and SO tempting.
One more stop at the Castillo Sforzesco, an old castle fort.  I was taking pictures of the fountain and the building while Dad walked went through the arch to get some pictures of his own.  So, since I was almost by myself again, maybe you can guess what happened.  A SECOND african man came up to me and YES, he put a bracelet on my wrist, even though I insisted that I wasn't going to pay him.  This man was even more forward than the last.  He claimed that this bracelet was for me because he Loved me.  Oh yes.  I'm sure he did.
All of the times on this trip that I have gotten similar attention from strange men, I always laugh inwardly at how my parents react.  But it always just reminds me of my mission.  I'm sure Elders get similar awkward moments, but I just don't think it will ever be the same as what sisters have to go through. I could almost confidently say that it happened every day.  So its a good thing I don't get unsettled every time my parents walk away and I'm alone for a few minutes. And hey!  Now I have TWO african bracelets for free.  Hehe.
After we said goodbye to Paulo and checked out of our hotel we set back on the road out of Italy and into the south of France.  For the first time, I finally had a view of the French Riviera, and the sun was shining brilliantly, though there were impressive looking clouds hanging over the land- it actually made for some interesting views.  But we hoped to beat the clouds and not get caught in them.
We drove by the Monte Carlo casino and cruised down the small and medium Cornishes before lunch.  When we got hungry we found a crêperie and enjoyed some very large and delicious savory crêpes, followed by two DELICIOUS dessert crêpes.
When we were driving on the Middle Cornishe we got some incredible pictures of the beautiful coast but when we started driving on the Grand Cornishe we were not fast enough to beat the clouds.  We drove to the top of the ridge and marched through light rain to find an old roman monument, the Trophy of Augustus in La Turbie.  Despite the rain, it was a beautiful area. I think the rain interrupted some fun Roman festival on the monument grounds.  There were tents and people dressed as Romans galthering up their stuff.  It would have been a very fun thing.  But luckily, since it was raining, the woman just let us through the gate for free. yay!
We drove through Nice and headed a little north, away from the coast to a small place in Provence, called Avignon, where we are staying for the next 3 nights.

Monday, September 30, 2013

Day 18: Milan

We left Vienna early and started our long drive. With a detour to go over a mountain path in Slovenia and a stop near the Austrian border to see an old bunker, our drive took most of the day. 
We had a left-over schnitzel lunch at a beautiful lake-side park called Worthensee. 
We entered Italy! Add another country to my list. It was fun to notice differences in the architecture and country side. Even though all of these countries are so close together and they have similarities in climate or culture, there are still noticeable differences in the buildings and the people. I love it and I wish I were more familiar with all of them. 
Italy's countryside is full of churches, like everywhere else, but they are no longer the spires and gray stone like in the northern countries. The Italian churches are more square with red tile roofs and brown stones or plaster. It's just like the kinds of things you see in paintings in Italian restaurants.  
Our first experience with Italy was getting gas in Verona. If you don't recognize the name of that city you need to read more Shakespeare.
The ride into the city of Milan is not so pretty from the freeway. There are just a lot of walls and ugly buildings in the way of seeing anything. But we were happy to arrive in Milan and the downtown part of the city is very beautiful. 
We came to Milan because a friend of the family lives there and wanted to have us for dinner. Paulo was an exchange student when he was a teenager and my dad had started college. It had been 30 years since they've seen each other but Paulo has kept good contact with the family. 
He had a hotel reservation ready for us so we were able to check in easily and freshen up very comfortably as we waited for Paulo to come pick us up. I got a room all to myself- which really just means I had my own bathroom cuz that's all that matters. Not having to schedule showers is so nice.
Paulo didn't live very far away, still just right in the center of town. He and his wife were very fun to talk to and they made an exceptional dinner. We started eating around 8 pm. We had bread with olives, pickles and mini onions for the antipasti. Then they cooked the pasta and served it with a sauce from her mother with eggplant. It was SO good! They brought out a sausage and cheese that came from a mountain region near by. The sausage was very hot. I took my taste bite with a bit of pasta. I believe the sausage was called Caciotta.
After we had eaten our fill of pasta Paulo went back to the kitchen and took out a large chunk of roasted veal. I had to laugh to myself when my dad realized that the pasta wasn't the main course. His face was classic. I had already eaten enough food to be satisfied until breakfast but I knew I'd be eating more anyway.  
Paulo cut the veal into slices and laid them in a casserole dish. Then he laid out the prepared potatoes around the meat and put it in the oven. Have you ever had a meal cooked for you as you go from course to course? Cuz it's pretty fun. It smells delicious and it is the best way to have long and lively conversations because it takes so long and there are breaks. 
When the veal came out Paulo poured a sauce over the whole dish and then served us. I was worried about being able to eat it all...until I tasted it. It. Blew. My. Mind.
His sauce was simply juice from the meat with nutmeg. I had never thought of nutmeg with meat but now I can't imagine meat without it. It was that good. If I had a second stomach I would have had second helpings. Thank you Paulo for changing my life. Around 11pm we finished dinner and decided to take the dog for a walk and get ice cream. Can you just imagine how good a gelato is in Italy? I had mint and chocolate. 
So, we had the longest most delicious dinner I have ever experienced and stayed the night in a hotel in MILAN. Fantastic new experiences.

Sunday, September 15, 2013

Day 17: Vienna

In the morning I took the public transportation with instructions from Julia to go meet my parents in the city center to see the famous dancing stallions in their morning practice. Mom was hoping they would rehearse their formations, but they just kept cycling through groups of horses to warm them all up and practice some of their tricks. We ended up staying for the whole thing hoping to see something more exciting, but we didn't. Mom thought it was a bit of a dud. And they must make so much money from that.
Dad left early to go see a clock that moves at noon. I believe it has 12 apostles that go around.
It started raining when mom and I left to go meet him at the cathedral. 
Mom and dad were ready to go see their museums but Julia had told me about a large market that I should check out so I told my parents I would just do my own thing today.
I quickly felt comfortable with the transportation and found buses when I needed them. So I went to the market and spent some of my money and then I went to the apartment we rented and laid down for a quick nap. When Julia texted me that she was on her way home I also set out to go to her house and help her cook.
It was heaven to just hang out in her house, helping when she needed me and just enjoying her company as well as getting to know her husband Sammy.  I had heard about Sammy during the mission and I would have killed to go to their wedding last fall, but at least I am here now.
Eventually the door buzzed and my parents were here. Dinner was not ready yet so they also got to relax and enjoy being in a 'home.' Dinner was fantastic, and for dessert dad had requested something he had a long time ago and Julia was happy to oblige him. He got to watch her make Kaiserschmaren- a pancake meal that is fluffy and torn up because some king a long time ago didn't like his pancakes flat. Sammy said that Julia must have made that up but dad 'wiki'd it and she was right.
It was a very fulfilling evening and it was sad to have to go and to say goodbye but I know one day they will come and visit.
Today was one of the best days of the trip so far.
So again- I'm sorry I can't tell you about my parents' adventures. They visited the military museum with a ginormous collection of armor and weapons, as well as the ancient musical instruments museum with an expansive collection of pieces that even my dad had no idea existed. They were very impressed with both museums.

Day 16: finally in VIENNA!!

We left Budapest early of course, saying goodbye to our cute host Zsofie.
I was so excited to get to Vienna. One of my mission companions lives in Vienna. Julia and I were MTC roommates (with four other amazing girls) and she was going to the Toulouse, France mission. She was actually the first sister I met. The Toulouse missionaries were on the bus with us to leave the MTC when all the Geneva missionaries were 'recalled' because our flight was cancelled. Hasty and confused goodbyes on the bus were all be got with those Toulouse missionaries but we had no clue what would happen to our missions in the future. In the middle of my mission, we were combined with Toulouse. In the first transfer where we were combined, President mixed every companionship so that we could get to know the new missionaries an learn how to work together. I was in Geneva with a french companion when Julia came to be in the other sister companionship. I was SO excited to see her again! We spent three transfers in Geneva and for 2.5 weeks in the middle we were made a trio. Those 2.5 weeks were some of the most rewarding of my mission and Julia became a best friend. I got to see much more of her in later transfers and of course, we got to finish together with all our other beloved sisters. Anyways- I can get very lost down mission-memory lane. Sorry for the digression but now you may understand why I was so excited to be in Vienna. I've seen the other sisters in Utah, but I haven't seen Julia since we parted in Heathrow airport 16 months ago.
So we drove into the city center and found parking near the tourist information center so we could plan our visit. I texted Julia and she said she could get out of work early and meet us. Yay!! After waiting impatiently through the next two hours while we explored the area a bit, finding locations of things we wanted to do, Julia was on her way to find us. It was raining and we were standing inside the museum gate for shelter when she was suddenly there and I was finally hugging her! I didn't want to let go but she could finally meet my parents.
Julia walked us through the city center, sharing some of the things she knows and we went to the city's old famous Ferris wheel. It was nice to see the city from so high and Julia was pointing out interesting things. Julia had to go to school at 5, but she invited me to come stay with her for the night. Yay!! And before she left she took us to her favorite ice cream place, which was Italian and Amazing! I had a nut mixture- which if you know me you might think WHAT?! I hate nuts in things because I don't like their texture, but I love most of their flavors. But these ice creams had no chunks- just the flavor! I got pistachio, chestnut, and Nutella, of course. Each of them were so delicious and the combination was incredible!
We happened upon a statue of Guttenburg, the man who invented the printing press. As we took a picture mom said, "we need books to be holding for the picture." So I had the funny idea to make the picture ironic- if it can even be seen in the photo; I pulled out my iPod, which has a number of my books saved. So even though I am incredibly grateful  for the invention of a printing press, I am also very grateful for the modern technologies that allow me to carry many books in my one pocket and it weighs only a few ounces.
We bought tickets for a symphony in the Golden Hall at 8, so we had time to explore more and find dinner. But first mom and I changed out of our jeans into skirt and dress so we wouldn't feel too underdressed at the concert. We found a perfect quick-food stand that sold sausages(LIKE a hot dog), Chinese noodles(cooked right on this huge flat hot-counter), and kebabs. I got a kebab(shocker), dad got a sausage and mom got noodles. We enjoyed our food with a talented accordion player in the background.
The symphony hall was very beautiful, and true to its name, very gold. It was a mostly young group of musicians, led by a young director. The music was incredible, and we were sitting only 10 rows back. We got great last-minute, half-priced, front-and-center tickets. It made for a great night. I enjoy such concerts because it reminds me of when I was in band. I didn't love playing the trumpet, cuz I was too lazy to practice, but I did love being a part of band. There is something special about adding a small part to such incredible and intricate creations of music.
After the spectacular performance we drove to find the place we had booked to check in, but I was going to stay with Julia so dad dropped off his stuff and then we drove to Julia's. We worked out a free parking situation by leaving our car at Julia's and she and I drove dad home. Then she was hungry (at 11:30 pm) so she bought food from Burger King and then she drove me out to the hills at the edge of Vienna where we parked with pretty views of the city and talked for hours.  We got back to her apartment around 2:30 and still couldn't stop chatting until after 4. And she had school in the morning at 8. I went to sleep on her very comfortable and ingeniously designed convertible couch.

Day 15: Middle of the trip- Budapest

Nutella in the car!!
Remember how I said before that we have the best road snacks ever? Well it got even better. Dad had the brilliant idea of just keeping a jar of Nutella in the car! Yes! We actually bought a knock-off brand because they exist here and they are cheaper and you wouldn't know the difference, anyway. So I had a delicious banana Nutella breakfast this morning.  Today like yesterday- we were driving a lot to get to Hungary but first we had one stop before we left the Czech Republic.
We visited the Bone Church in Kutna-Hora. It is a very creepy-macabre church where everyone wanted to be buried because some man in the 13th century brought dirt from Golgotha and sprinkled it on the ground. So to them it was very holy land- a good place to be buried. Their total is 40,000 people laid to rest there. How? Well when they ran out of ground they started using the bones to decorate and build large pyramids of bones. It was like something right out of Indiana Jones or Lord of the Rings 3. Pretty freaky. I think if I wanted to be an archeologist or someone like Brennan from Bones I could do it. But there was something so weird about using the bones all mixed together, and as decorations, that was really disturbing.  It didn't FEEL like a place to honor the dead and let them rest, especially since they have four candelabras, mostly of skulls, that you can touch. Dad did- so I did quickly. I mean, just last night I decided to do things I've never done before and I certainly had never touched a human skull. 
Btw- even with all the strange things you will see in movies and you imagine what they would be like- you NEVER know how you will really react to such things. It was WEIRD. Have I said it enough? Weird morning.
We didn't stay long. Had to hit the road.
Getting to Budapest took longer than we hoped due to road work but we found an information center and bought tickets for a on-off bus tour around the city. The buses took us around all of the center of town to see the monuments and buildings, but only in passing. It's a good way of seeing everything quickly and seeing things you may want to revisit later.
Our place for the night is very close to all of the major sites to see- very close to the center of the city. Our host is the most adorable young woman! She was as sweet and helpful as they come but she also had a high-pitched mousy voice like a cartoon. She was just too cute. It's hard to describe her. So she came out the door, and we're so 'tickled' (as my mom would say) to see her hustle about to help us upstairs. Then we see her flat- her painting studio, actually- which was HUGE! All if the ceilings were 12-14 feet high! Large rooms full kitchen and roomy bathroom. This is NOT the kind of apartment you expect to see in the middle of a big city and owned by a young person. Plus- she doesn't live there. It's just her studio. Incredible. My favorite part? A piano in the corner by the window. The acoustics were fantastic and I felt different playing that piano in that setting.  I had a lovely evening to myself in the flat, listening to Zsofie's collection of music while my parents went out in the late boat cruise. They got back very late but dad went out again to take more pictures while mom went to bed. I think we could all say that we had a lovely and perfect day.